New climbing crag in Hvar, Croatia

Klemen Bečan, climbing coach and professional climber, member of Singing Rock Climbing Team has been active the whole year with climbing, coaching, bolting and living with his wife and son in their van. Klemen managed to climb super cool projects in Greece and Croatia. Despite his projects, coaching and climbing Klemen was also active with developing a new crag in Hvar, Croatia.

Lučišća crag

Lučišća is a recently developed crag which is overlooking the road above the Lučišća bay. The crag can be climbed all through the year. In summer it is in the shade until 15:30h and again later in the day. Rock is facing west-north-west. The belayers and children will be protected from the sun by the canyon.

Klemen told us about this new crag

When we walked up to the big Lučišća crag, the closer we got, the bigger it looked. Even before I cached my breath, I was already searching for new lines I wanted to open. One particular stood out immediately in the center of the wall, over the huge roof with big holes and into grey holdless headwall. I decided the best way to start working on it is to get to the top by doing a big traverse from the side, over some loose ledges, and finally to the final part of the beautiful headwall of the route. Just when we reached the top, stronger than strong Jugo wind started and was trying to blow us off the wall. Then the rain started. But luckily, that was not a big problem for continuing working on a big roof. The quality of the rock was amazing, and I knew I had a great week of bolting ahead of me.

It took us almost a week when we started trying all the routes that we had done. It was worth it. I can’t remember when I enjoyed climbing so much. It is special to put all the work into developing a new climbing area and then enjoy climbing in it. You don’t want to leave the island when you see the result and how fun climbing on newly bolted routes.

Sector Ruža Vjetrova has 23 brand new routes, and 18 are still waiting for the first ascent. I don’t believe in closed projects, so if anyone feels like getting the extra points for FA, feel free to go for it. After all, I did not make routes; they were carefully sculpted by nature to give us these amazing challenges. I just put the bolts in to make it safe.

If you want to know more details, including topo, visit Klemen's website or hvarclimbing.com.

Nová lezecká oblast na Hvaru, Chorvatsko